Camping in Dhofar

Camping. Here are a few off-the-beaten-track coastal camping spots: Dhalkut, Rakhyut, Mughsayl [1], Khor Rori [2], Hinu area (beyond Mirbat); Mahallah and Gangri (both near Sadh); Hadbeen and Hasik. In most of these places, drive a couple of kilometres away from the town or village and you will find good camp sites. There are many other (inland) sites, although their suitability for camping depends on the time of year and weather conditions, especially temperature, humidity and wind.

It's advisable to camp in groups of more than 3 or 4 people. Probably the only place where you can leave your gear unattended for the day is at Mughsayl. However, take your valuables with you. There are very few places that have facilities (toilets, running water) so be prepared!

Beaches near Salalah for picnics. Following are some popular and usually safe beaches [3]: Mughsayl, Al-Awqad, Al-Haffa, Dahariz, Taqa, Ajoont, Mirbat, Hinu.

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[1] This is an ideal place to camp as there are about 20 pergolas along the beach which can be used to camp in. However, on holiday weekends like Eid, you need to be early otherwise others will occupy them for the whole weekend.

[2] Not suitable for swimming at any time of the year.

[3] During the Khareef season (May - October), swimming is not permitted in any of the beaches of Dhofar, not that you would want to, as it is generally very dangerous with unpredictable rips and undertows.

The Lost Symbol

1600 years ago a terracotta cup inscribed with six symmetrical symbols was buried in a fort in southern Arabia. What did those symbols represent and what was the cup used for?
A team of archaeologists headed by Dr Juris Zarins unearthed it from a buried fort, which was once an integral part of the ancient frankincense trade. Fort Hamran, as it is now known, lies 25 km east of Salalah in the Dhofar governorate of southern Oman.

The vessel they found was originally purple in colour and marked with six simple Greek crosses. Their conclusion is that it was a Christian chalice! And what was it doing in southern Arabia?
This raises the possibility that Christian monks had set up a centre in what was once a frankincense trading post. "There is a chance that Ain Humran was the missing 'third church' founded by the Byzantine missionary Theophilus Indus in the middle 300s." (Clapp, N. (1998). The road to Ubar : finding the Atlantis of the sands. Boston: Houghton Mifflin. p.212)

Don't count the stars: it might spell your demise!

This is the warning traditionally issued to young children in the Dhofar Mountains of southern Oman. I asked one of my students - Ahmed Al-Ma'ashani - to explain. He told me the story that he had been told by his grandparents (and maybe told to them by their grandparents).

© Ross Hayden. Shehait sinkhole, Dhofar Mountains

"One day a boy was outside at night and he decided to see how many stars there were in the sky. Unfortunately, he kept counting until he counted his own star whereupon that star immediately fell to earth and destroyed him and all the inhabitants of his village." I asked Ahmed how they knew it had happened like this when the witness to it had been killed. He said that the person who observed him counting the stars probably got so bored that he walked far from the village and was able to safely observe the arrival of the meteorite!

© Ross Hayden. Shehait sinkhole, Dhofar Mountains

In any case, just behind Ahmed's village in Shehait (on the road to Tawi Attair) is a sinkhole. It is about 100m in diameter and 40 metres deep.
A similar story is used by locals to explain the formation of the nearby sinkhole at Tawi Attair. However, unanimous scientific opinion says that both these sinkholes were formed by the action of water in the limestone and not by meteorites. Tawi Attair sinkhole is about 150 metres in diameter and is over 200 metres deep.
The above two sinkholes are very impressive. However, my favourite is Teyq, which also happens to be one of the largest sinkholes in the world. It's about 10 km north of Tawi Attair. At first sight it doesn't even look like a sinkhole! Technically, it is described as a collapsed sinkhole. There are two wadis (dry river valleys) which merge in the sinkhole. When it rains water flows along the wadis and then disappears into a large underground cavern. The sinkhole itself is 1.25 km long, 1 km wide and 250 metres deep, with a volume of about 300 million cubic metres.